I think it's funny in life how small decisions can have outcomes exponentially greater than their initial intentions. When I first opened a page in Google Docs around 2 years ago and started making a list of all the places I wanted to visit, in all the countries of the world- and then even, when I showed it to my best friend and he jokingly suggested we should travel the world after Sixth Form- I never would have thought it would result in me writing this as I am now, passing grazing fields and windmills through the countryside of France en route to Bordeaux from Paris.
Every step of the way so far has felt completely detached from reality. The person who received his A-Level results only 9 days ago, who cheered on his football team this time last week, who hugged everyone goodbye at St. Pancras 4 days ago, is already so far removed from the one right now making his way through Kerouac's 'On the Road' and still coming to terms with his new freedoms. I think of home regularly, but often it's in wishing they were here with me as opposed to the inverse- clichés exist with reason, and it's true, I've come to realise, my home was those people, not the streets and underpasses I learned to know like the back of my hand.
Nethertheless, coming out of the Calais side of the Euro tunnel (spotting a French flag through the left window as we emerged gladly helped me verify), I couldn't help a feeling of loss in the life I'd left behind to pursue my inherently selfish aspirations.
But I am here, and although I'm beginning to miss the parts of me I left at home with the people and the places that have been my constant for as long as I can remember, I'm also quite beginning to enjoy being interrupted as I was just now by the French rail man asking for my train ticket and reservation, and stumbling my way through a reply in a foreign language.
That's been the reality of my time on this trip so far- barely managing to get what I want with minimal coherent French and a lot of 'Merci!'s, panicking at every zebra crossing because they don't work like they do in the UK, consistently looking the wrong way for traffic and struggling to differentiate between goat's cheese and butter. But what I love about it all is, whilst I undoubtedly look like a stupid British person abroad with a backpack the size of himself strapped to him, I'm constantly learning.
I was told different things about Paris before coming- on one hand, I was warned about the pickpockets and scammers, aware of the recent political troubles, and told it could be dirty and smelly. But it was also difficult to ignore the romantic ideal of the 'City of Love', and the fact that I'd finally be able to realise the image I'd had in my head since planning this gap year- sat in the gardens, looking upward at the Eiffel Tower.
I'm going to tell you what I thought of Paris, but I will preface it with this- ignore literally everything I say, whether positive or negative. Every opinion I heard up to the point of visiting this city was completely irrelevant until I formed my own, first-hand, and I'd commend you to do the same.
Unsurprisingly, as the capital, Paris is a relatively pricy city for a traveller on a budget. When eating out, I found the average main course to be around 15€, a pint around 10€ and a soft drink around 3-4€. Supermarkets were actually pretty well priced, and for us, getting a baguette for less than a euro and filling it with 2€ ham or chorizo worked perfectly. If you're backpacking or travelling on a budget and staying in hostels, I'd highly recommend finding one with self-catering facilities. Our hostel was great cleanliness and staff-wise, but the cost of food and drink was extortionate for expectedly lacklustre dining.
I could talk all day about Paris's public transport system- I could not be more impressed with the Metros. There were plenty of stations, regular trains, and it was incredibly easy to navigate. Ticket machines were available in English, French, Spanish and Italian, and all it cost was 2.10€ to enter the underground, which you could then take any route you needed, changing lines if needs be, and not pay another fare until re-entering after leaving the underground completely. Convenient for someone like me with tired legs being very cautious with money on the first stop of my trip. On the metro trains themselves, many lines had the stops printed along the walls, with lights indicating where you are and where you are heading, and there was plenty of both standing and seating place- and you'll be happy to know, the heat is much less intense than the London Underground.
Safety was a big concern for me coming into this city, and regrettably I'd say the concerns were well placed. Even as two men travelling together, Zac and I were approached by people on the street and made to feel very uncomfortable, so I can't begin to imagine a solo female experience. Whilst it did slightly dampen the highs of the amazing parts of the city, as long as you're alert to what's around you, ignore and refuse any approaches, and keep valuables close and inaccessible (ie, a bumbag under a jacket), the experience is enjoyable if only a bit of a confidence-tester.
I didn't find the city particularly dirty or smelly at all, less so than London which is my only real reference point. In the more populous areas of the city, the shopping districts for example, there was quite a lot of homelessness apparent, and beggars on the metro were also common. We actually found to enjoy some of the less frequented areas a lot more than the likes of the Champs-Elysees- Zac found a really cool free museum called the 'Musee Carnavalet', which was a great, cheap way to spend an afternoon, and spending two evenings of our time in Paris watching the sunset at the 'Parc des Buttes-Chaumont' was something I will never forget. Of course though the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Louvre, Notre Dame, I could continue- are what fills that itinerary, and a trip to Paris is not complete without them. The Louvre is one of the most incredible sites I've ever stepped foot in, aspects of centuries of cultural history around every single corner, you almost struggle to immerse yourself in it all at once. Standing in Trocadero Square and watching the Eiffel Tower at night is absolutely surreal and so, so beautiful.
And now, as we're pulling into Bordeaux, I wanted to sign off by saying how thankful and fortunate I am that I get to experience this, highs and lows included. Yes, I had to work for 2 years to save and afford this trip, but already I feel like I would do it again in a heartbeat. It's already beginning to feel worth it, and I'm even more excited by the prospect of another 80+ days of new experiences, lessons and growth yet to come. When everything is so fast-paced at the moment, it's difficult to find time to pause and appreciate it all. But every time I do, and take a deep breath and just look around me, I can't believe how lucky I am, to be healthy and present and seeing incredible new views every day.
Cheers for the read,
EV
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